When the Bodykits for FORTE coming out?

will u be my white kaki ?

tish wrote:will u be my white kaki ?

Off course!
all of us here are kakis,
but you and me are my white kakis (pek kah tui)lol...

Wahahah!!!!! Later become pek kah tui / Pek hor / lao ah pek !!!

So do you all mean me having a bright silver colour is lao ah pek

Bright Silver nice where got lao ah pek.
I wonder will we see an orange Forte.

I will really admire him/her if he/she take up this colour

u guys over thirties? u dont know meh ? my wife say over thirty is call "dirty old man" (thirty old man) lol

Fortec wrote:Bright Silver nice where got lao ah pek.
I wonder will we see an orange Forte.

leng kee show room for chilli red for test drive i heard LOL!!

Looking at the registration on the forum, Bright Silver, Dark Cherry and Metal Bronze are the more popular colors.

Juz@kid wrote:

dandeana21 wrote:

Juz@kid wrote:Looks to me the colour is Metal Bronze.

Right on!! datz metal bronze.. the color of my car too..

Aisey.. char Bo.. My ride oso same. Metal Bronze..

WOOHOO!!! metal bronze reigns!!!! wakakaka..

tish wrote:u guys over thirties? u dont know meh ? my wife say over thirty is call "dirty old man" (thirty old man) lol

hhmmm... i agree wif ur wife.. ** grinz **

nocash wrote:

tish wrote:will u be my white kaki ?

Off course!
all of us here are kakis,
but you and me are my white kakis (pek kah tui)lol...

i juz can't stop laughing over here.. pek kah tui sounds like white leg..

Lol.. I hope you guys dun relate me as ah pek... I still below 30 and yet choose bright silver...Kinda when you guys say bright silver is ah pek color.. I feel like not collecting my FORTE anymore due to ah pek color.

hhhhmmm... hard to say leh.. still ah pek!! ** grinz **

HUh?? Impact2001 u hvn't get your car?

Nope.. I bought mine at official launch but guess due to color i selected, it need to wait a while..

I had a check with lengkee.. mine will be the next coming batch.. This batch is the 3rd round.. So round will be the 4th round which is abt may-june..

dandeana21 wrote:

nocash wrote:

tish wrote:will u be my white kaki ?

Off course!
all of us here are kakis,
but you and me are my white kakis (pek kah tui)lol...

i juz can't stop laughing over here.. pek kah tui sounds like white leg..

u really very excited over guys leg leh....

dandeana21 wrote:

tish wrote:u guys over thirties? u dont know meh ? my wife say over thirty is call "dirty old man" (thirty old man) lol

hhmmm... i agree wif ur wife.. ** grinz **

Why must everything agree with my wife one ? u and her want to be jie mei kar tui kaki also r?

impact2001 wrote:Lol.. I hope you guys dun relate me as ah pek... I still below 30 and yet choose bright silver...Kinda when you guys say bright silver is ah pek color.. I feel like not collecting my FORTE anymore due to ah pek color.

wow, then how old are u actually.

Actually i look at the silver color, i think for a build like forte looks pretty chio also...

me always believe that I am "18"... never grew old.. haha

har!! I always think im 24-26 coz people always say i look ard that age....

Hi all... From a reliable source... Tmr in leng kee you will get to see the bk if nothing goes wrong... So for existing customer who wish to buy bk, it will cost abt $1200..

For new customer, your FORTE will include bk but there will be a catch which I not sure if i can say out or not..

Anyway, just make a trip down and see for yourself if the bk suits u or not.

impact2001 wrote:Hi all... From a reliable source... Tmr in leng kee you will get to see the bk if nothing goes wrong... So for existing customer who wish to buy bk, it will cost abt $1200..

For new customer, your FORTE will include bk but there will be a catch which I not sure if i can say out or not..

Anyway, just make a trip down and see for yourself if the bk suits u or not.

wahh.. simi catch? share share leh..

lawrenceke wrote:

impact2001 wrote:Hi all... From a reliable source... Tmr in leng kee you will get to see the bk if nothing goes wrong... So for existing customer who wish to buy bk, it will cost abt $1200..

For new customer, your FORTE will include bk but there will be a catch which I not sure if i can say out or not..

Anyway, just make a trip down and see for yourself if the bk suits u or not.

wahh.. simi catch? share share leh..

catch is car for new customer will be more ex?

Has called up KIA SE, if opt out bodykit, $500 off price only

har... not fair leh..

Well for SX model still priced at 48999, as for EX, i think is abt 2-3k expensive liao.. I cant remember..

Pro is of cos new buyer will get BK as part of the deal, con will be u really need to wait long long...

dandeana21 wrote:har... not fair leh..

Not fair in the sense?

orh.. if opt out of the bk for new orders, it's not fair tt they oni discount $500..

They already hint to you liao... That BK doesn't cost as much as $1200. The actual cost price for BK is lower than $500.. So you more or less can figure out how much they charging per bk... My reliable source say still not sure what material they use to make the bk as these bk is locally made.. So i had say earlier, try go down see see look look.. If u really interested and cannot wait, go ahead and book first.. Otherwise wait for better replica to come out...

Currently they only had 1 design to show altthough somewhere out in another forum mention got 4 designs.

me can oni head down on next mon to look c look c when i send the car for the 1st servicing.. me tmr morning heading to m'sia liao.. woohoo!!

wow!! they hv 4 designs some more?? at least can get to choose if there are 4..

impact2001 wrote:Well for SX model still priced at 48999, as for EX, i think is abt 2-3k expensive liao.. I cant remember..

Pro is of cos new buyer will get BK as part of the deal, con will be u really need to wait long long...

Really wait long long I think T_T.

1.6 EX price no change
1.6 SX price up 1k
2.0 SX price up 2k

tish wrote:1.6 EX price no change
1.6 SX price up 1k
2.0 SX price up 2k

Oh...so they juz add the BK price into the package and sell, if opt out the BK still get $500. Win Win for them.
I suppose the EX dont come with the BK then

Think will still offer EX with bodykit.
Note that when you book the EX now, you will get rear drum brakes, hydraulic assisted steering instead. The spec is different from the first batch during pre-launch.

Latest pricing :
EX M $40999
EX A $43999
SX M $45999
SX A $48999
2.0 M $52999
2.0 A $53999

All this info from my SE. I am still deciding..

Advise not to get rear drum brakes... this is a 120+ horsie car.... more efficient braking with disc brakes

tish wrote:Advise not to get rear drum brakes... this is a 120+ horsie car.... more efficient braking with disc brakes

IMHO, I think the EX is really best bang for money.
For a mere 40k, u get a 1.6L sedan that looks GOOD and basically has the same engine performance as the SX version minus the brakes and steering.

However, who on SG road rev up to 1xxkm/h and then brake hard down to 20-40km for every turn on the streets?
Drum brakes are more than sufficient for normal street driving. No doubt they tend to amass alot of brake dust but that's what servicing is for isn't it?

Steering is not really an issue. Once a car get going, they are pretty much the same. It won't be much of a difference with hydraulics, u still get assisted steering...maybe when u drive one without power steering then u get what i mean liao.

With the EX basic model, u get use the few K to get urself a decent sound system and prolly can bargain from 17inch upgrade and get the SE to throw in the sensors as well.

If u r into performance, better off buy those proven street performance cars like GTR, STI, Type R, Evo etc etc. Forte will never come close to those even after spending $$$$$$$$$ on it.

well said. When i said advise not to get drums, i was refering to myself more. My riding/driving style is more suited with disc brakes.

tish wrote:well said. When i said advise not to get drums, i was refering to myself more. My riding/driving style is more suited with disc brakes.

U motosiao, of course lah haha...U'll miss the acceleration and the zig zag through jams.

OT: i not motosiao ah, i'm ur friendly neighborhood motorcyclist wor!!

lol His our neighborhood motorsiaocyclist

Lol, we going over off topic liao ... let keep back on track lol

seem to me e bk is abit too ex since its locally made. C&C is so clever in making $. dos new buyer who dun wan e bk, $500 will be minus off from e car price. still bo wah.. lugi.. me rather wait for replica since other forum got mention der r 4 design.

then again.. $1200 for e bk, is include spray n installation??

I believe should be inclusive since end user already pay so much... Just that I doesn't know the color will match or not as it will be locally fabricated and spray here.. As for the material used, this is also one question.. Surely you won't want to purchase a cheapo bk that is heavy or not durable right?

But one thing first, ask urself... Is it worth to get a BK for $1200? I know nissan, mit OEM BK already cost ard 2k to 3k..

I think there is a difference between a hydraulic-assisted power steering and a motor-assisted power steering... Which is quite obvious when you hold the steering...

Real.SHIN wrote:I think there is a difference between a hydraulic-assisted power steering and a motor-assisted power steering... Which is quite obvious when you hold the steering...

Me not saying no difference at all, don't get me wrong. Both are also power steering which provide assistance to the driver during slow speed or stationary wheels turning. Of course there are handling characteristics difference between the two, but even two systems of the same implementation has different handling characteristics too. Their main difference is how they are implement. Either way they beat the crap out of non power steering systems.

Most of the time in SG we are travelling at speed over 50km/h and straights. How often do we turn our steering wheel over 1 round at less than 5km/h anyways except for parking or U turning?

Btw I can't tell what sort of steering wheel by just holding the steering wheel though. I think I at least have to at least turn it mah?

However, hydraulics might uses abit of more fuel since it requires a continous pump and motor-assisted is fly by wire style. So probably motor-assisted is the way to go.

Holiday, where to go......anyone going to see the BK 2day?

Most power steering systems work by using a hydraulic system to turn the vehicle's wheels. The hydraulic pressure is usually provided by a gerotor or rotary vane pump driven by the vehicle's engine. A double-acting hydraulic cylinder applies a force to the steering gear, which in turn applies a torque to the steering axis of the roadwheels. The flow to the cylinder is controlled by valves operated by the steering wheel; the more torque the driver applies to the steering wheel and the shaft it is attached to, the more fluid the valves allow through to the cylinder, and so the more force is applied to steer the wheels in the appropriate direction.
One design for measuring the torque applied to the steering wheel is to fix a torsion bar to the end of the steering shaft. As the steering wheel rotates, so does the attached steering shaft, and so does the top end of the attached torsion bar. Since the torsion bar is relatively thin and flexible and the bottom end is not completely free to rotate, the bar will soak up some of the torque; the bottom end will not rotate as far as the top end. The difference in rotation between the top and bottom ends of the torsion bar can be used to control the valve that allows fluid to flow to the cylinder which provides steering assistance; the greater the "twist" of the torsion bar, the more steering assistance will be provided.
Since the pumps employed are of the positive displacement type, the flow rate they deliver is directly proportional to the speed of the engine. This means that at high engine speeds the steering would naturally operate faster than at low engine speeds. Because this would be undesirable, a restricting orifice and flow control valve are used to direct some of the pump's output back to the hydraulic reservoir at high engine speeds. A pressure relief valve is also used to prevent a dangerous build-up of pressure when the hydraulic cylinder's piston reaches the end of the cylinder.
Some modern implementations also include an electronic pressure relief valve which can reduce the hydraulic pressure in the power steering lines as the vehicle's speed increases (this is known as variable assist power steering).

Electric Power Steering systems use electric components to aid the steering, with no hydraulic systems at all. Sensors detect the motion and torque of the steering column, and a computer module applies assistive power via an electric motor coupled directly to either the steering gear or steering column. This allows varying amounts of assistance to be applied depending on driving conditions. Most notably on Fiat group cars the amount of assistance can be regulated using a button named "CITY" that switches between two different assist curves, while on Volkswagen Group cars the amount of assistance is automatically regulated depending on vehicle speed.
In the event of component failure, a mechanical linkage such as a rack and pinion serves as a back-up in a manner similar to that of hydraulic systems.
Reviews in the automotive press often comment that steering systems with electric assist do not have a satisfactory amount of "road feel". Road feel refers to the relationship between the force needed to steer the vehicle and the force that the driver exerts on the steering wheel. Road feel gives the driver the subjective perception that they are engaged in steering the vehicle. The amount of road feel is controlled by the computer module that operates the electric power steering system. In theory, the software should be able to adjust the amount of road feel to satisfy drivers. In practice, it has been difficult to reconcile various design constraints while producing a more pronounced road feel. It should be noted that the same argument has been applied to hydraulic power steering as well.
The peak power output of the electrical system of a vehicle limits the capability of electric steering assist. A 12 volt electrical system, for example, is limited to about 80 amps of current which, in turn, limits the size of the motor to less than 1 kilowatt. (12.5 volts times 80 amps equals 1000 watts.) This amount of power would be adequate for smaller vehicles. It would probably be considered insufficient for larger vehicles such as trucks and SUVs. There are other types of electrical systems such as the 42 volt system and other variants used for hybrid and electric vehicles. These have greater capacity that enable use of multi kilowatt motors needed for large and mid-size vehicles.
Electric systems have a slight advantage in fuel efficiency (almost 1 MPG) because there is no hydraulic pump constantly running, whether assistance is required or not, and this is the main reason for their introduction. Their other big advantage is the elimination of a belt-driven engine accessory, and several high-pressure hydraulic hoses between the hydraulic pump, mounted on the engine, and the steering gear, mounted on the chassis. This greatly simplifies manufacturing.

greatgazoo wrote:Most power steering systems work by using a hydraulic system to turn the vehicle's wheels. The hydraulic pressure is usually provided by a gerotor or rotary vane pump driven by the vehicle's engine. A double-acting hydraulic cylinder applies a force to the steering gear, which in turn applies a torque to the steering axis of the roadwheels. The flow to the cylinder is controlled by valves operated by the steering wheel; the more torque the driver applies to the steering wheel and the shaft it is attached to, the more fluid the valves allow through to the cylinder, and so the more force is applied to steer the wheels in the appropriate direction.
One design for measuring the torque applied to the steering wheel is to fix a torsion bar to the end of the steering shaft. As the steering wheel rotates, so does the attached steering shaft, and so does the top end of the attached torsion bar. Since the torsion bar is relatively thin and flexible and the bottom end is not completely free to rotate, the bar will soak up some of the torque; the bottom end will not rotate as far as the top end. The difference in rotation between the top and bottom ends of the torsion bar can be used to control the valve that allows fluid to flow to the cylinder which provides steering assistance; the greater the "twist" of the torsion bar, the more steering assistance will be provided.
Since the pumps employed are of the positive displacement type, the flow rate they deliver is directly proportional to the speed of the engine. This means that at high engine speeds the steering would naturally operate faster than at low engine speeds. Because this would be undesirable, a restricting orifice and flow control valve are used to direct some of the pump's output back to the hydraulic reservoir at high engine speeds. A pressure relief valve is also used to prevent a dangerous build-up of pressure when the hydraulic cylinder's piston reaches the end of the cylinder.
Some modern implementations also include an electronic pressure relief valve which can reduce the hydraulic pressure in the power steering lines as the vehicle's speed increases (this is known as variable assist power steering).

You wrote this or copy and paste..... btw, not everyone is an engineer here.... rotary vane pump verses cylinder pump or reciprocating pumps..... most probably do not understand a single bit..... can we have plain everyday Joe's English?

Btw, I am not an Engineer.....

is for reading wise and a rough guide on how it works. Don't have to really understand it deep in detail.